Finishing Up

June 7, 2014

           

Before most of the house awakened, Idanna, PE and Lila left for their early flight home. With the last day stretching before us, we made our plans. There was last minute laundry to complete, packing to be done, the house to be put back in order and the refrigerator to be emptied. We had managed to not damage anything which was an accomplishment extraordinaire and it was the goal to leave everything as we found it. That's very possibly the unwritten rule of House Exchange.

However, some of us took the opportunity to steal away to the Carmaux Market. Josh, Sylvia and I packed up Roby and Canon and set off for a last minute visit. The market actually is located in two town squares a couple of blocks apart and was teeming when we arrived around ten. One could basically buy anything from the numerous vendors.

Of course, the produce and meat booths were the busiest as the French appear to eschew anything but fresh and the selection is tantalizing. In addition though, there were opportunities to purchase shoes, purses, clothing and jewelry.

Then there were the stands to buy aromatic breads and pastries and the cart with the amazing rainbow array of macaroons!

Furniture and textiles...mais oui. Belts and books...mais oui. Foie gras and candles...mais oui. Swordfish head...mais oui. Plus the man selling his craft beers and hops that was the siren for Sylvia and Joshua. It was definitely a full shopping experience but not complete without another stop at Super U for some last minute bars of chocolate!

Finally the weather had warmed and the children and Betsy enjoyed a dip in the pool and the kids ran free in the cherry orchard. Lots of squeals of delight could be heard and we wished the weather had been a little more accommodating earlier in the trip. The pool area was beautiful and it was regrettable we had not been able to enjoy it more.

During the day we attempted to finish off the food and beverages and the children's parents anticipated their evening out. Earlier they had seen posters in town that proclaimed an appearance of The Animals ( an old rock n roll band ) and it was a "must do". After parents left and baths were completed, the kids escaped to the terrace for playtime.

Roby and Rider blew bubbles and made shadow pictures while Baby Canon busied himself depositing pebbles in a container and then dropping pebbles through the lattice bottoms of the metal chairs.

Simple pleasures accomplished sans technology.

When the sun began to set and the shadows deepened, Grandfather and I divided forces to put all the children to bed. Canon was asleep immediately but Roby and Rider ( by now in separate rooms ) took more coaxing to settle down. The parents arrived home about one o'clock with stories to tell about their first French concert...a success by their accounts.

Then off to bed as there were not quite enough hours before tomorrow's flights from Toulouse that were scheduled before ten. The next morning it was bittersweet to leave our adoptive French home. Many memories were logged in of the journey and, although the children are probably too young to actually remember our adventure, it is safe to assume the adults will fondly recall our time in the countryside of Southwest France.

As For The Rest...

Highlights

These posts have encompassed the highlights but a considerable amount of time was spent just plain enjoying the surroundings and, perhaps, pretending a little that we lived in this beautiful region. A couple of days Idanna, Poppy, Paul and PE went to visit local jardins (gardens)  and Steve did an eight mile trek that ended in a cafe in Carmaux where he shared a few beers with new friends.

Betsy snuck in a few hours of plein air painting when the light was favorable while Rider, Roby and Canon scampered out to visit and feed the neighbor's donkey when they could convince an adult to accompany them.

Sometimes one of us could grab time to read by the fishpond while listening to the frogs. One evening, Paul and I were treated to an unexpected concert outside a church in Monesties. The Tarn Orchestra was performing Mozart's Requiem.
The Animal Parc was the destination for Aunt Betsy and the Denver Thurmonds on a day that Steve, Rider and Mimi had a quiet, stay-at-home day.

Also, one day, Sylvia and Joshua were able to steal away for a visit to the town of Roquefort. Yes, the home of that famous cheese! There they went on an exhilarating hike and enjoyed a unique tour that included the history of cheese and culminated with a laser show. The day was capped with a quiet meal at Le Boeuf Marin where they met Chef Eric. Josh and the chef talked shop and Josh was given a tour of the kitchen and an insider's view of a typical French restaurant.

On several occasions various family members travelled to Albi to McDonald's to access the internet and sneak in American fast food French style. Sometimes the older two children tagged along to visit the Play Space. Other times, a side trip was made to the adjacent LeClerc, the French equivalent of Walmart but with better food choices.

Joshua and I experienced French medicine. For minor medical issues the French go to the local pharmacy where the resident PhD pharmacist prescribes appropriate medicine. He, unfortunately, was plagued with seasonal allergies to crops growing around the house and I was tormented by an upper respiratory problem quite possible by the mold of the old house. In this case, the pharmacist spoke no English so I, in my rudimentary French, explained our maladies. She did seem to understand our predicament but she definitely did not understand the extent of knowledge of her language. Luckily my ability to read the language exceeds my ability to speak and understand so I was able to read the labels and we improved! Look for a lighted neon green cross should you require a pharmacist's services.

Another pleasure of the trip was eating our weight in breads and pastries. Steve actually was on a mission to consume a loaf of bread every day and we think he succeeded. Not surprisingly, the breads and pastries were beyond excellent. We also had the creamiest foie gras I'd ever tasted which was purchased from a vendor at the Cordes' market. Then there was the never-ending array of magnificent cheeses. The singular disappointment was we couldn't find the best cassoulet, a specialty of the region, but that's a good reason to return. In addition, we drank copious quantities of local Gaillac wines and found them quite suitable though it's pretty darn hard to find wine that is not delicious when in France.

The logistics of maintaining enough food and drink for a household of twelve, dumping the trash, keeping three vehicles in fuel and washing and drying clothes took its share of time but made us feel that we were not just tourists but were engaged in the life of the region. Actually we saw few tourists other than the French themselves. The region is the least sparsely populated in the country and the locals with whom we had interaction could not have been more welcoming or helpful. During our two weeks we didn't see any other Americans and few Brits.

The visit was long enough to provide all of us a time to truly savor the experience and pretend, even just for a while, we were living the French life. The little snippets we all pieced together will no doubt be relished in the years to come.

Le Boeuf Marin

June 6, 2014

 As a special treat in celebration of our French family adventure, we booked dinner at the self-proclaimed best restaurant in Carmaux. Chef Eric promised to cook especially for our family though I'm not certain he anticipated all the twists and turns we ushered into his restaurant. Everyone dressed up a little as we planned a family photo.

 We gathered on the terrace for cocktails and light hors d'oeuvres as Joshua prepared the camera for the photo.

After corralling the kids, the photograph was snapped and we went off to the quaint Le Boeuf Marin. The town was bustling as it was the evening of some kind of marathon for all age groups. The streets and the main square were full of participants and spectators and a festive atmosphere permeated the air.

Le Boeuf had been prepared for us with a table in the center of the restaurant while Chef Eric, his wife, his son and his daughter stood by to make the evening memorable. After a bit of discussion, everyone chose the prix fix menu and the wine was selected. The children, looking like angels, were on their best behavior with the promise of a Kinder Egg at the conclusion of the meal when disaster struck. First Roby and then Canon had serious bathroom issues that kept their parents occupied for a length of time. Luckily, neither child was phased by the experience and both returned to the table clean and ready to nibble at the beautiful food prepared just for them.

 After the clean up though, their parents were ready for copious amounts of wine!

From amuse-bouche to dessert the meal was delicious and perfectly prepared. The chef and his family could not have been more accommodating as the little ones were whisked away to the restroom and a complete cleansing of the highchair was required between courses.

Many toasts were offered but the most unexpected one was made by Chef Eric. He produced a bottle of champagne and proposed a toast to the United States for our assistance in freeing the French during the occupation of World War II. Indeed it was D Day and there had been celebrations all day in Normandy. Presumably Chef Eric was a small boy on June 6, 1944 but one could feel his heartfelt thanks for the sacrifices made by many Americans on that fateful day.

The choices for dessert proved to be too difficult so the group chose an assortment to share and it was fortuitous. Each was sensational and every morsel was consumed. With the bill paid and profuse thanks tendered, we joined the throngs still milling about the square to allow Roby and Rider some time to run. Almost immediately the children joined a group of French kids and proceeded to play the "run and chase" game which transcends all language barriers. It is DNA wired into all children of a particular age.

We stayed a bit as the crowd thinned and the square cleared. As we left, the street cleaners were already hard at work because the next day was a market day and the space had to be ready for the vendors. We walked the few blocks to the cars and made the short drive to Combefa. Everyone agreed it had been, indeed, a memorable night and a special way to end our trip.

Like Lemmings to the Sea

June 5, 2014

With the Mediterranean tantalizingly close and the ever present desire of Betsy and Steve to seek the ocean, an excursion was planned to Narbonne-Plage. Previously we had come very close when we visited Carcassonne so we felt confident we could make the trip without missteps. The GPS only failed us a couple of times and, after rolling through acres of vineyards, a sliver of forest and a handful of towns, we reached the city of Narbonne. In retrospect we should have paused and explored this 1st century BC city founded by the Romans. In any case, we, like the lemmings, barreled forward with Betsy at the wheel of the Jumpy to Narbonne-Plage. As we topped each vineyard covered hill, expectation grew that we'd glimpse the storied sea. After a few false hopes, we could see it gleaming on the horizon.

     

Because it was early in the season and not all that warm, we had an almost deserted beach that swept to what we speculated was Spain. A spit of land jutted onto the horizon and it was exciting to think we were close. In any case, the die-hards ( that would be everyone except Mimi) at least waded in the cold water. Betsy and Steve declared it warmer than the Pacific and submerged themselves. Rider and Roby definitely wanted to play at the beach, sample the water and get buried in the sand. Even Sylvia, Joshua and Canon made sure they could boast of "swimming" in the Med.

Admittedly the vistas were lovely and the sun was the warmest of the trip. It was a pleasant way to spend a few hours! After beachside showers for the sandy ones, we withdrew to a  restaurant and tried the seafood expecting it would be locally caught. Steve and Betsy ordered pricey Mai Tais that bore no resemblance to the actual drink while the rest of the adults consumed beer...always a safe choice in a foreign country. Josh won the prize once again as the most adventurous eater when his plate arrived with half raw seafood threaded on a stainless steel contraption. Imaginative presentation, seriously bad taste.

Taking a different route home through yet more of the grape growing region and into Toulouse cut the travel time but also cost about $21.00 in tolls. There are several major toll roads in the Southwest and, with children in tow, this was perfect. Overall, for the amount of time we spent in cars, all the children were amazingly well behaved especially if they could access their iPads. Even Canon was content to peer over his sister's shoulder or laugh at Rider's antics.

A successful day was claimed as we had actually touched the sea and arrived home with no sunburns!

Beautiful day for everyone.

Double the Pleasure: Castles

What is a trip to France without a visit to castles? So the whole troop agreed to travel to two diverse castles. With high anticipation by our four year old Princess  Roby we set off for the first. Najac is just down the road past Monesties and Cordes Sur Ciel. It is situated on a precipice of granite high above the Aveyron River and is stunning as you emerge from the forest and spy the castle high above you. It is easy to see how its location gave excellent military advantage to the occupants.

A single ancient street leads from the 15th/16th century village up to the ruins of the 12th century castle. It's a lengthy trek up the mountain but the charm of the village with its amazing display of flowers made the trip pleasant if demanding for old folks like me.

Once we reached the castle, Roby went into full princess mode as she raced around with Rider exploring the bucolic ruins. She was quick to ascertain there were no princesses in residence and that they were all dead. (We're not all sure about this whole notion of dead princesses. Must be in a movie she's seen.)

Once they discovered the hole where the dungeon had been located, they improvised an entire scenario involving "bad guys" and delighted in chasing one another around the "keep". Canon also enjoyed toddling around the grassy area and even tried out an ancient throne i.e. potty chair.

The adults marveled at the views across the valleys and discussed the history of this section of France. We read that the Crusaders passed through the area much to the chagrin of the locals. They weren't necessarily the nice guys of the fairy tales!

We basically had the castle to ourselves and our group spent an hour or so climbing the stone stairs and marveling at the deep holes in which the defenders, who were archers, had to slide in and shoot their arrows through the loopholes ( slits) in the walls. That looked pretty uncomfortable.

After we made the considerably easier downward trek, we checked in at the requisite church and went on to the car for the journey home. As usual it was quicker going home as we avoided some "mistakes" in our route. The surrounding countryside was so lovely and we couldn't agree on what color trim we would choose if we had a French home. There was a spectacular shade of lavender blue that I favored.

As we sped through Monesties, we decided to stop at the park and let the little ones play. There we were treated to a glimpse of village life. A group of men and women were playing the French version of bocce called petanque or boules. These folks were quite serious about their game and their beverages as they had installed a full-sized refrigerator near the refreshment table and powered it with an extension cord strung from a close-by building. You don't see that every day.

There was a cafe on the square but, alas, it wasn't open. However, Steve was not deterred. He went over, made friends with the proprietor using his high school French and soon they had agreed to open early and prepare supper for us. An al fresco dinner followed that included duck confit, fresh fish and assorted other dishes plus good French beer and even better vin ordinaire. It would be simple to become accustomed to this life.

The second chateau visit was a few days later on June 2 and, again, included everyone. A circular route determined by the GPS took us through many towns and villages and in places where we saw no other vehicles. This time we climbed the fog shrouded slopes of Montagne Noire, around hairpin curves and then plunged down into a valley before approaching La Cite of Carcassone. The views must have been spectacular if we could have seen more than twenty yards in front of the car. Roby was nonplussed as she felt certain we were going to the castle of Belle and the Beast.

We were not disappointed once we traversed the plain between the Pyrenees and Massif Central and found the settlement on a strategic hill. Checking into the history, we learned the area had been colonized by the Romans but others had been there from the 6th century BC. The Gauls followed in the 3rd century and then the Romans in 118 BC after they had colonized Narbonne down the road.

Although portions of the castle date from the Romans, Carcassonne's glory seemed to be in the 12th century when the stone halls rang with the troubadours and poets who entertained the knights and their ladies. To approach the castle itself, one has to pass through an extremely large stone gate and through a maze of, what is now, souvenir shops replete with plastic swords, figurines, medieval costumes as well as candles, candy and tee shirts proclaiming one has visited Carcassonne. This venue was easily the busiest we had visited during vacation and, once again, we saw no other Americans. It is easy to believe this is one of the premier tourist attractions in the country. It has been the site of several motion pictures as it is an exceptionally well-restored medieval city.

Once we passed over the moat, now planted with grass and gardens, we were plunged into history in the Chateau Comtal. The watchtowers and wooden walkways entranced Roby and Rider. The museum in the chateau also held Roman fragments, gargoyles and miscellaneous bits of the original structure not restored by Viollet-Le-Duc, the prolific Gothic revivalist and architectural historian of the 19th century. As expected, from the parapets, we were treated to panoramic vistas of the extensive valley.  

 This region is the Aude and, undoubtedly, had much more to explore than Carcassonne but, after a delicious lunch in a crowded square of the Cite, we made our way home with yet another stop at a Super U.

It seems difficult to choose which castle was the best as each had its own charm. For sure, both pleased out little princess. They were right up her alley!

Family Feast

Saturday, May 31

Our resident chef, Joshua, was commissioned to prepare a family feast as a highlight of the trip. How lucky to have a trained chef when visiting France!
He and Sylvia shopped at the Carmaux market on Friday and bought lapin
(rabbit), canard (duck), porc (pork loin), saucisse (sausages) in addition to assorted vegetables and local fromage (cheese) in preparation for the occasion. With numerous bottles of wine on hand everything appeared promising!

To allow the chef a quiet space, Betsy, Steve, Sylvia and I took the children to the Cordes market.  

We perused the market, bought even more fruit and bread and sauntered into the patisserie on the square and had wonderful pastries. It's never a hardship to visit the patisseries.

In our absence, Josh conjured up the feast. Upon our return from the market, he, Grandfather and Steve rearranged furniture and generally prepared the covered arbor of the garden for the evening repast.

With the children romping in the garden and swinging in the hammock, Josh treated himself to cooking in the ancient stove oven.

The evening chill was dissipated by the fire Steve made in a small fire pit and we dined on a sumptuous rabbit, duck, sausage stew; juicy roasted pork; a yummy cheese and potato casserole; crisp haricot vert and a fresh green salad accompanied by plenty of good red wine and crusty bread. No one was eating any finer in France that night.

It was easy to imagine how many lovely evenings the owners of this special house and their children have embraced this same sense of contentment. How extraordinary it was they had allowed our family to experience the beauty and solitude of the French countryside.

More pictures from the evening...