Double the Pleasure: Castles

What is a trip to France without a visit to castles? So the whole troop agreed to travel to two diverse castles. With high anticipation by our four year old Princess  Roby we set off for the first. Najac is just down the road past Monesties and Cordes Sur Ciel. It is situated on a precipice of granite high above the Aveyron River and is stunning as you emerge from the forest and spy the castle high above you. It is easy to see how its location gave excellent military advantage to the occupants.

A single ancient street leads from the 15th/16th century village up to the ruins of the 12th century castle. It's a lengthy trek up the mountain but the charm of the village with its amazing display of flowers made the trip pleasant if demanding for old folks like me.

Once we reached the castle, Roby went into full princess mode as she raced around with Rider exploring the bucolic ruins. She was quick to ascertain there were no princesses in residence and that they were all dead. (We're not all sure about this whole notion of dead princesses. Must be in a movie she's seen.)

Once they discovered the hole where the dungeon had been located, they improvised an entire scenario involving "bad guys" and delighted in chasing one another around the "keep". Canon also enjoyed toddling around the grassy area and even tried out an ancient throne i.e. potty chair.

The adults marveled at the views across the valleys and discussed the history of this section of France. We read that the Crusaders passed through the area much to the chagrin of the locals. They weren't necessarily the nice guys of the fairy tales!

We basically had the castle to ourselves and our group spent an hour or so climbing the stone stairs and marveling at the deep holes in which the defenders, who were archers, had to slide in and shoot their arrows through the loopholes ( slits) in the walls. That looked pretty uncomfortable.

After we made the considerably easier downward trek, we checked in at the requisite church and went on to the car for the journey home. As usual it was quicker going home as we avoided some "mistakes" in our route. The surrounding countryside was so lovely and we couldn't agree on what color trim we would choose if we had a French home. There was a spectacular shade of lavender blue that I favored.

As we sped through Monesties, we decided to stop at the park and let the little ones play. There we were treated to a glimpse of village life. A group of men and women were playing the French version of bocce called petanque or boules. These folks were quite serious about their game and their beverages as they had installed a full-sized refrigerator near the refreshment table and powered it with an extension cord strung from a close-by building. You don't see that every day.

There was a cafe on the square but, alas, it wasn't open. However, Steve was not deterred. He went over, made friends with the proprietor using his high school French and soon they had agreed to open early and prepare supper for us. An al fresco dinner followed that included duck confit, fresh fish and assorted other dishes plus good French beer and even better vin ordinaire. It would be simple to become accustomed to this life.

The second chateau visit was a few days later on June 2 and, again, included everyone. A circular route determined by the GPS took us through many towns and villages and in places where we saw no other vehicles. This time we climbed the fog shrouded slopes of Montagne Noire, around hairpin curves and then plunged down into a valley before approaching La Cite of Carcassone. The views must have been spectacular if we could have seen more than twenty yards in front of the car. Roby was nonplussed as she felt certain we were going to the castle of Belle and the Beast.

We were not disappointed once we traversed the plain between the Pyrenees and Massif Central and found the settlement on a strategic hill. Checking into the history, we learned the area had been colonized by the Romans but others had been there from the 6th century BC. The Gauls followed in the 3rd century and then the Romans in 118 BC after they had colonized Narbonne down the road.

Although portions of the castle date from the Romans, Carcassonne's glory seemed to be in the 12th century when the stone halls rang with the troubadours and poets who entertained the knights and their ladies. To approach the castle itself, one has to pass through an extremely large stone gate and through a maze of, what is now, souvenir shops replete with plastic swords, figurines, medieval costumes as well as candles, candy and tee shirts proclaiming one has visited Carcassonne. This venue was easily the busiest we had visited during vacation and, once again, we saw no other Americans. It is easy to believe this is one of the premier tourist attractions in the country. It has been the site of several motion pictures as it is an exceptionally well-restored medieval city.

Once we passed over the moat, now planted with grass and gardens, we were plunged into history in the Chateau Comtal. The watchtowers and wooden walkways entranced Roby and Rider. The museum in the chateau also held Roman fragments, gargoyles and miscellaneous bits of the original structure not restored by Viollet-Le-Duc, the prolific Gothic revivalist and architectural historian of the 19th century. As expected, from the parapets, we were treated to panoramic vistas of the extensive valley.  

 This region is the Aude and, undoubtedly, had much more to explore than Carcassonne but, after a delicious lunch in a crowded square of the Cite, we made our way home with yet another stop at a Super U.

It seems difficult to choose which castle was the best as each had its own charm. For sure, both pleased out little princess. They were right up her alley!

Family Feast

Saturday, May 31

Our resident chef, Joshua, was commissioned to prepare a family feast as a highlight of the trip. How lucky to have a trained chef when visiting France!
He and Sylvia shopped at the Carmaux market on Friday and bought lapin
(rabbit), canard (duck), porc (pork loin), saucisse (sausages) in addition to assorted vegetables and local fromage (cheese) in preparation for the occasion. With numerous bottles of wine on hand everything appeared promising!

To allow the chef a quiet space, Betsy, Steve, Sylvia and I took the children to the Cordes market.  

We perused the market, bought even more fruit and bread and sauntered into the patisserie on the square and had wonderful pastries. It's never a hardship to visit the patisseries.

In our absence, Josh conjured up the feast. Upon our return from the market, he, Grandfather and Steve rearranged furniture and generally prepared the covered arbor of the garden for the evening repast.

With the children romping in the garden and swinging in the hammock, Josh treated himself to cooking in the ancient stove oven.

The evening chill was dissipated by the fire Steve made in a small fire pit and we dined on a sumptuous rabbit, duck, sausage stew; juicy roasted pork; a yummy cheese and potato casserole; crisp haricot vert and a fresh green salad accompanied by plenty of good red wine and crusty bread. No one was eating any finer in France that night.

It was easy to imagine how many lovely evenings the owners of this special house and their children have embraced this same sense of contentment. How extraordinary it was they had allowed our family to experience the beauty and solitude of the French countryside.

More pictures from the evening...

The Painting Is On The Wall

May 29, 2014

Each adult was asked to think about the one thing/site they wanted to see or experience while in France. The idea was that we would compare notes and then divide up into more manageable groups based on interests for various side trips. Number one on my list was a life-long interest in seeing the "cave paintings" in southwest France. I had first read about these in World History 101 in college in the 1960's and  was fascinated with the idea prehistoric dwellers actually created these more than 35,000 years ago. The most famous are the Lascaux paintings discovered by four boys in the 1940's. However, since the 60's I have  learned about 100 caves in this area of France and stretching into Spain have been discovered to harbor paintings. Some were discovered in the nineteenth century but discounted as a hoax. Only when carbon dating became a reality were they authenticated as being produced between 30,000 and 10,000 years in the past.

Because Lascaux has been closed to the public since 1963 due to deterioration of the art, we chose to visit Pech-Merle where we could view original art. The Lot portion of France was closer to home-base and it took only a couple of hours to reach Grotte Pech-Merle. The Matz family, the Joshua Thurmond family and Mimi buckled up in the Jumpy and set off to investigate the forests. After an extremely scenic journey meandering through dense forests and lush meadows encased by towering limestone cliffs , we eased into the parking lot of Centre de Prehistoire du Pech-Merle.

In 1922 two teenage boys from the nearby village of Cabrerets discovered the caves. The boys reported what they found to the local priest who happened to have an abiding interest in history and he realized the importance of the find.
Apparently the original entrance to the cave had been buried in a rock slide probably about 10,000 years ago at the end of the Ice Age but another smaller entrance afforded the boys a way into the cavern.

Now the cave is accessible only with a tour guide and the number of visitors is limited on a daily basis as even human breath can damage the pristine surfaces on which the drawings appear. This particular cave is known for its great natural beauty as well as the paintings. The best known of the paintings is the frieze of two spotted horses and the presumed signature of the artist _ stenciled handprints. Also intriguing is the fact that the artist incorporated the natural rock formation as part of the head of one of the horses making it appear three dimensional. Present also is a red fish on the back of one of the horses which is a rare motif in cave art. Of course, all is speculation as to why the paintings are there at all and their exact significance.

In addition, in the cavern one sees preserved footprints of a prehistoric adolescent boy, a rare drawing of a wounded human figure plus "cave pearls" and "spinning top" formations. These latter two were created by sand and gravel particles which have been coated by calcite and polished by the water that   dripped into the cave. As we moved deep into the cave with our group, it became harder to fathom the bravery of those long ago peoples who dared to venture into the blackness of the interior and then cleverly managed to produce the large drawings.

By promising ice cream at the end of the tour, Roby and Rider were attentive and quiet. However, Canon quickly found that he could produce an echo with his voice and regaled everyone with an abundance of chatter. Luckily our guide confessed she, too, had a baby and totally understood his enthusiasm. The visit was certainly all I anticipated.

Albi and the Musee Toulouse-Lautrec

May 27, 2014

It was reminiscent of "herding cats" but the premier outing for everyone was a sojourn in to Albi with a visit to Cathedrale Ste-Cecile and the adjacent Musee Toulouse-Lautrec. We could manage with two cars for the twelve if we drove the Jump and the Ford Max so with Paul and Joshua as our designated drivers and our GPS onboard, we set off.

On this first excursion, it seemed like a big adventure to a distant place but, as the vacation continued and we got more comfortable with the terrain, we realized that Albi was no more than a skip and a jump from Combefa and Carmaux. Neither driver was certain of our exact destination but it seemed prudent to follow the signs to "centre ville" as the cathedrals of old were inevitably in the center of town. After maneuvering through the city traffic, we were able to park within a few blocks of our target and set off walking. The cathedral itself was begun in 1282 and took a century to build but has withstood the years well. Not being an expert on cathedrals, to me it appeared like most Gothic buildings. The children did, however, find the fountain enjoyable.

To break up the touring after the cathedral, we walked around the square and enjoyed snacks of delicious crepes from an outdoor stand. Both savory and sweet were on the menu and it was a difficult choice. 

We perused the shops and soaked in the local culture.

Then we turned our attention to the museum itself. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec was born here in 1864 to a wealthy family. He suffered two accidents in his teens that left him with atrophied legs and, in his convalescence, he focused on sketching and painting to pass the time. After his early death, his parents donated a vast body of work from his studio and this museum houses the most extensive collection of Lautrec in the world.  

                                                    The site could have warranted an extended period of time but the children tolerated it well and we all particularly enjoyed the garden.

More walking about followed the museum and a time at a cafe for libations, bathrooms and people-watching was included. Near the cafe was a carousel so our little guys were treated to several rides before we piled into the cars to return to Combefa via Super U. 

 Relaxing on the terrace and sipping wine seemed a fitting end to the day. Jet lag was beginning to set in for the Sunday arrivees so an early night was key to being able to keep up the pace for the hectic days to follow.

Sunday at Blagnac Airport

May 25, 2014

 Our the second attempt at the toll road was less expensive as we had deciphered the signs and we mastered the drive from Combefa through Albi and almost to the Toulouse airport without a hiccup. One missed turn did take us to the town of Blagnac rather than the Blagnac airport but we righted ourselves and arrived in sufficient time for the Denver group to arrive.

This was the plan: we picked up one car on Friday when Paul and I arrived and drove it back on Sunday when we were to pick up the second car. All this was necessary as we couldn't get just one car that could transport all of us and, anyway, the Denver family was arriving a little after nine and the LA bunch after twelve. The early arrivals portion worked and Mimi,

Josh, Sylvia and two pretty tired kids left to drive back to the "castle" as proclaimed by Roby. She was more than a little excited to spy the castle and explore the area. Canon was just happy to not be confined after the lengthy plane ride.

However, there was a fly in the ointment when I received a text once we ( minus Paul) were back in Combefa. Betsy wrote they had missed their connection in Munich and would not be arriving until after five. There was no way to contact Paul as he didn't have his cellphone but he figured it out when the Lufthansa flight arrived with no Matz family and busied himself using the wifi at the airport.

Even with the hitch, Paul picked up the car which had been upgraded to a Citroen nine passenger "Jumpy", retrieved Betsy, Steve and Rider and made it home for a delicious spaghetti dinner washed down with plenty of local wine!
Early to bed ensured a fresh start the next day.

Lesson for the day...virtually nothing is open in France on Sunday and always take your cellphone.

Home Away From Home

Because this is being written entirely after the fact, some of the details may be blurred. I had good intentions of blogging during the trip but it didn't happen.

The original part of the house was constructed in the 1300's so the walls are mostly stone with some plaster and the ceiling have massive wooden beams.
Many of the steps were hand hewn stone thus very uneven giving pause to this grandmother about small children going up and down them. The current owners, a British couple form Leeds, bought the property about twenty-five years ago and set about restoring the very decrepit building. The story goes that they and their seven children would come from England and actually camp out on the premises through the years as the work progressed.

Probably the oldest part of the house is what is now a modern kitchen/keeping room, an adjacent wide hall, two bedrooms and two baths. The ceilings in these spaces are of standard height; floors are stone tile, the walls thick and cold and the keeping room has a spacious fireplace large enough for a man to stand upright. The owners have installed a wood burning stove in the fireplace and added radiators for additional heat.

I would have paid a tidy sum to have known how to turn on the heat but the fires that were built in the "stove" did help. The kitchen included a six burner gas stove, dishwasher and typical European refrigerator and washing machine. The best feature for our family was the table that sat twelve. Perfect!

The house was loaded with interesting art pieces so the most fragile ones were removed and replaced in the niches with numerous bottles of wine. The windows were closed with heavy wooden shutters as were the glass doors on the premises.

Up a couple of stone steps from the kitchen, one reached a large hallway that led both to the walled garden and a fairly steep stone stairway that led to the next level.

The steps led to a landing and a small play area for the children complete with, presumably, grandchildren's toys. This proved a blessing for Roby, Rider and Canon.

Off the landing, one moved into a massive hallway with twenty foot ceilings and a very tall, wooden stairway to yet another level. Off this area was an extremely large living room with another huge fireplace, which we never used.
Above the fireplace a ubiquitous medieval tapestry was hung that immediately captured Roby's attention. After studying it for a few moments she declared,
" Mimi, all the princesses' are dead but I'm not sure about the unicorns." She was quite taken with "dead princesses" and often mentioned them during our stay.

To the right of the hallway, there was a door that led to an obviously old wooden stairway that took us to our room. Because it was a challenge to choose a safe spot for Roby and Rider, we chose a room with the shared bath and put the children in the other bedroom. As "gatekeepers" we could keep them corralled, give their parents a break from some of the childcare duties and reminisce about the days of raising our own children. The downside was the lack of a nightlight and none to purchase so we had to leave the bathroom light on all night.

On the level at which our stairwell began, there was a half bath, a small bedroom with twin beds and a large den/library...yet more space we didn't occupy. Through the den was another bedroom and bath and the second kitchen. No wonder the hosts said to come and bring the family. There was ample room for several more.

In the hall and up the spiraling wooden stairway was a big landing with two more bedrooms and en suite bathrooms. Betsy and Steve and Sylvia and Josh occupied these rooms with Baby Canon on a cot in his parents' room. The rooms were appointed with lovely antique furniture and spacious modern baths though not supplied with washcloths nor bars of soap. I was aware to take those two items along to the traditional European hotels but surprised they weren't in the house. No problem though, the Super U had both and I was able to refit the bath before the kids arrived. A hairdryer was also purchased and left for the next guests.

As lovely as the house was and as eccentric as the art pieces were, my favorite feature was the outdoor space. A perfect enclosed garden with its covered terrace, frog pond and fourteenth century stone oven were as charming as could be imagined.

We spent many hours with the children playing in the space and had a memorable feast one evening that Josh prepared utilizing the oven. 

The story was related that the oven had been used, in times past, to bake bread for the entire village. 

When we could carve out time, the garden proved a lovely space in which to sun and read. 

On the other side of the house was an expansive terrace and adjoining it was the saltwater pool complete with multi-leveled decks overlooking the fields and hillsides. 

All of the adults gathered quite frequently around the wrought iron table for drinks, hors d'oeuvres, or a smoke. 

Canon mostly used the area for picking up the pebbles from the terrace and depositing them in whatever containers were available. Toward the front of the house there was a grassy area with a swing set and a separate space where the children discovered and picked cherries. It was an idyllic spot.

The house itself was set amidst vistas of farmland, pasture and rolling hills. Our closest neighbors included a friendly, braying donkey and a small herd of cows. Not much action on the rural road past the house but only about ten minutes to a town. 

If the weather had been a bit more cooperative, we would have used the pool more but we were thankful that the last few days proved to be just warm enough for Betsy and the children to brace themselves and take a dip. The rest of the stay was primarily sunny but required at least a sweater or light jacket for comfort. Every time the sun appeared, we quickly washed clothes and hung them out to dry!

To overcome the absence of internet and television, Betsy and Joshua, who needed to monitor work activities, quickly ascertained that the McDonald's in Albi offered free wifi. They, along with Steve, made several trips into town but, for me, no TV, internet and newspapers was a respite from the world.

We certainly offer Bill and Jane ( whomever they are ) our hearty thanks for sharing their very special place with us and we are thankful we did no harm...possibly a minor miracle.

Preparation

May 24, 2014

Saturday found us not at all jet lagged and we prepared for the onslaught of the grandchildren and their parents. A pleasant morning was spent at the market in nearby Cordes Sur Ciel. Cordes is a medieval bastide- a town planned and built for the peasants who worked the land for the nobles of a particular geographic region. The market was held in the town square at the base of the bastide and was charming. We purchased fresh produce, tasty crepes, outstanding foie gras and paella for our evening meal. We took the sightseeing train to the top of the precipice , explored the preserved city, marveled at the panoramic vistas and then ambled down to the bottom. Negotiating the market was not too difficult even with limited French but figuring out exactly how to pay for parking proved to be more of a challenge. OK, so we made the maximum and didn't have to. Actually we did the same thing the day before on the toll road from Toulouse to Albi because we couldn't totally comprehend the directions quickly enough at the tollbooth.

The remainder of the day we settled in with a visit to the supermarket i.e. Super U where we were entranced with the displays of beautiful cheeses and wines. The most perplexing decision was what milk to choose for the children. The milk is all packaged without need of refrigeration until opened ( the Europeans are so far ahead of us ) and there were copious choices. We laid in yet more fruit, special cereal "Petales" which was rice flakes and chucks of dark chocolate, Kinder eggs, cheeses, breads, wines and the ingredients for pasta sauce so that the Sunday evening meal could be staged before the airport run. All the planning ahead was fortuitous as Sunday arrivals did not exactly conform to plans!

The weather at this point was not as we had hoped and I rapidly learned to wear my jersey pants, teeshirt, jersey hoodie and socks to bed. We didn't know how to turn on the heat and the stone house was just plain cold. Sometimes it was warmer outside than in and the smoking group : Paul, PE and Idanna spent a lot of time on the terrace area by the pool. Admittedly the only time I felt really warm for the first few days was when I was taking a shower.