Finishing Up

June 7, 2014

           

Before most of the house awakened, Idanna, PE and Lila left for their early flight home. With the last day stretching before us, we made our plans. There was last minute laundry to complete, packing to be done, the house to be put back in order and the refrigerator to be emptied. We had managed to not damage anything which was an accomplishment extraordinaire and it was the goal to leave everything as we found it. That's very possibly the unwritten rule of House Exchange.

However, some of us took the opportunity to steal away to the Carmaux Market. Josh, Sylvia and I packed up Roby and Canon and set off for a last minute visit. The market actually is located in two town squares a couple of blocks apart and was teeming when we arrived around ten. One could basically buy anything from the numerous vendors.

Of course, the produce and meat booths were the busiest as the French appear to eschew anything but fresh and the selection is tantalizing. In addition though, there were opportunities to purchase shoes, purses, clothing and jewelry.

Then there were the stands to buy aromatic breads and pastries and the cart with the amazing rainbow array of macaroons!

Furniture and textiles...mais oui. Belts and books...mais oui. Foie gras and candles...mais oui. Swordfish head...mais oui. Plus the man selling his craft beers and hops that was the siren for Sylvia and Joshua. It was definitely a full shopping experience but not complete without another stop at Super U for some last minute bars of chocolate!

Finally the weather had warmed and the children and Betsy enjoyed a dip in the pool and the kids ran free in the cherry orchard. Lots of squeals of delight could be heard and we wished the weather had been a little more accommodating earlier in the trip. The pool area was beautiful and it was regrettable we had not been able to enjoy it more.

During the day we attempted to finish off the food and beverages and the children's parents anticipated their evening out. Earlier they had seen posters in town that proclaimed an appearance of The Animals ( an old rock n roll band ) and it was a "must do". After parents left and baths were completed, the kids escaped to the terrace for playtime.

Roby and Rider blew bubbles and made shadow pictures while Baby Canon busied himself depositing pebbles in a container and then dropping pebbles through the lattice bottoms of the metal chairs.

Simple pleasures accomplished sans technology.

When the sun began to set and the shadows deepened, Grandfather and I divided forces to put all the children to bed. Canon was asleep immediately but Roby and Rider ( by now in separate rooms ) took more coaxing to settle down. The parents arrived home about one o'clock with stories to tell about their first French concert...a success by their accounts.

Then off to bed as there were not quite enough hours before tomorrow's flights from Toulouse that were scheduled before ten. The next morning it was bittersweet to leave our adoptive French home. Many memories were logged in of the journey and, although the children are probably too young to actually remember our adventure, it is safe to assume the adults will fondly recall our time in the countryside of Southwest France.

As For The Rest...

Highlights

These posts have encompassed the highlights but a considerable amount of time was spent just plain enjoying the surroundings and, perhaps, pretending a little that we lived in this beautiful region. A couple of days Idanna, Poppy, Paul and PE went to visit local jardins (gardens)  and Steve did an eight mile trek that ended in a cafe in Carmaux where he shared a few beers with new friends.

Betsy snuck in a few hours of plein air painting when the light was favorable while Rider, Roby and Canon scampered out to visit and feed the neighbor's donkey when they could convince an adult to accompany them.

Sometimes one of us could grab time to read by the fishpond while listening to the frogs. One evening, Paul and I were treated to an unexpected concert outside a church in Monesties. The Tarn Orchestra was performing Mozart's Requiem.
The Animal Parc was the destination for Aunt Betsy and the Denver Thurmonds on a day that Steve, Rider and Mimi had a quiet, stay-at-home day.

Also, one day, Sylvia and Joshua were able to steal away for a visit to the town of Roquefort. Yes, the home of that famous cheese! There they went on an exhilarating hike and enjoyed a unique tour that included the history of cheese and culminated with a laser show. The day was capped with a quiet meal at Le Boeuf Marin where they met Chef Eric. Josh and the chef talked shop and Josh was given a tour of the kitchen and an insider's view of a typical French restaurant.

On several occasions various family members travelled to Albi to McDonald's to access the internet and sneak in American fast food French style. Sometimes the older two children tagged along to visit the Play Space. Other times, a side trip was made to the adjacent LeClerc, the French equivalent of Walmart but with better food choices.

Joshua and I experienced French medicine. For minor medical issues the French go to the local pharmacy where the resident PhD pharmacist prescribes appropriate medicine. He, unfortunately, was plagued with seasonal allergies to crops growing around the house and I was tormented by an upper respiratory problem quite possible by the mold of the old house. In this case, the pharmacist spoke no English so I, in my rudimentary French, explained our maladies. She did seem to understand our predicament but she definitely did not understand the extent of knowledge of her language. Luckily my ability to read the language exceeds my ability to speak and understand so I was able to read the labels and we improved! Look for a lighted neon green cross should you require a pharmacist's services.

Another pleasure of the trip was eating our weight in breads and pastries. Steve actually was on a mission to consume a loaf of bread every day and we think he succeeded. Not surprisingly, the breads and pastries were beyond excellent. We also had the creamiest foie gras I'd ever tasted which was purchased from a vendor at the Cordes' market. Then there was the never-ending array of magnificent cheeses. The singular disappointment was we couldn't find the best cassoulet, a specialty of the region, but that's a good reason to return. In addition, we drank copious quantities of local Gaillac wines and found them quite suitable though it's pretty darn hard to find wine that is not delicious when in France.

The logistics of maintaining enough food and drink for a household of twelve, dumping the trash, keeping three vehicles in fuel and washing and drying clothes took its share of time but made us feel that we were not just tourists but were engaged in the life of the region. Actually we saw few tourists other than the French themselves. The region is the least sparsely populated in the country and the locals with whom we had interaction could not have been more welcoming or helpful. During our two weeks we didn't see any other Americans and few Brits.

The visit was long enough to provide all of us a time to truly savor the experience and pretend, even just for a while, we were living the French life. The little snippets we all pieced together will no doubt be relished in the years to come.

Le Boeuf Marin

June 6, 2014

 As a special treat in celebration of our French family adventure, we booked dinner at the self-proclaimed best restaurant in Carmaux. Chef Eric promised to cook especially for our family though I'm not certain he anticipated all the twists and turns we ushered into his restaurant. Everyone dressed up a little as we planned a family photo.

 We gathered on the terrace for cocktails and light hors d'oeuvres as Joshua prepared the camera for the photo.

After corralling the kids, the photograph was snapped and we went off to the quaint Le Boeuf Marin. The town was bustling as it was the evening of some kind of marathon for all age groups. The streets and the main square were full of participants and spectators and a festive atmosphere permeated the air.

Le Boeuf had been prepared for us with a table in the center of the restaurant while Chef Eric, his wife, his son and his daughter stood by to make the evening memorable. After a bit of discussion, everyone chose the prix fix menu and the wine was selected. The children, looking like angels, were on their best behavior with the promise of a Kinder Egg at the conclusion of the meal when disaster struck. First Roby and then Canon had serious bathroom issues that kept their parents occupied for a length of time. Luckily, neither child was phased by the experience and both returned to the table clean and ready to nibble at the beautiful food prepared just for them.

 After the clean up though, their parents were ready for copious amounts of wine!

From amuse-bouche to dessert the meal was delicious and perfectly prepared. The chef and his family could not have been more accommodating as the little ones were whisked away to the restroom and a complete cleansing of the highchair was required between courses.

Many toasts were offered but the most unexpected one was made by Chef Eric. He produced a bottle of champagne and proposed a toast to the United States for our assistance in freeing the French during the occupation of World War II. Indeed it was D Day and there had been celebrations all day in Normandy. Presumably Chef Eric was a small boy on June 6, 1944 but one could feel his heartfelt thanks for the sacrifices made by many Americans on that fateful day.

The choices for dessert proved to be too difficult so the group chose an assortment to share and it was fortuitous. Each was sensational and every morsel was consumed. With the bill paid and profuse thanks tendered, we joined the throngs still milling about the square to allow Roby and Rider some time to run. Almost immediately the children joined a group of French kids and proceeded to play the "run and chase" game which transcends all language barriers. It is DNA wired into all children of a particular age.

We stayed a bit as the crowd thinned and the square cleared. As we left, the street cleaners were already hard at work because the next day was a market day and the space had to be ready for the vendors. We walked the few blocks to the cars and made the short drive to Combefa. Everyone agreed it had been, indeed, a memorable night and a special way to end our trip.

Like Lemmings to the Sea

June 5, 2014

With the Mediterranean tantalizingly close and the ever present desire of Betsy and Steve to seek the ocean, an excursion was planned to Narbonne-Plage. Previously we had come very close when we visited Carcassonne so we felt confident we could make the trip without missteps. The GPS only failed us a couple of times and, after rolling through acres of vineyards, a sliver of forest and a handful of towns, we reached the city of Narbonne. In retrospect we should have paused and explored this 1st century BC city founded by the Romans. In any case, we, like the lemmings, barreled forward with Betsy at the wheel of the Jumpy to Narbonne-Plage. As we topped each vineyard covered hill, expectation grew that we'd glimpse the storied sea. After a few false hopes, we could see it gleaming on the horizon.

     

Because it was early in the season and not all that warm, we had an almost deserted beach that swept to what we speculated was Spain. A spit of land jutted onto the horizon and it was exciting to think we were close. In any case, the die-hards ( that would be everyone except Mimi) at least waded in the cold water. Betsy and Steve declared it warmer than the Pacific and submerged themselves. Rider and Roby definitely wanted to play at the beach, sample the water and get buried in the sand. Even Sylvia, Joshua and Canon made sure they could boast of "swimming" in the Med.

Admittedly the vistas were lovely and the sun was the warmest of the trip. It was a pleasant way to spend a few hours! After beachside showers for the sandy ones, we withdrew to a  restaurant and tried the seafood expecting it would be locally caught. Steve and Betsy ordered pricey Mai Tais that bore no resemblance to the actual drink while the rest of the adults consumed beer...always a safe choice in a foreign country. Josh won the prize once again as the most adventurous eater when his plate arrived with half raw seafood threaded on a stainless steel contraption. Imaginative presentation, seriously bad taste.

Taking a different route home through yet more of the grape growing region and into Toulouse cut the travel time but also cost about $21.00 in tolls. There are several major toll roads in the Southwest and, with children in tow, this was perfect. Overall, for the amount of time we spent in cars, all the children were amazingly well behaved especially if they could access their iPads. Even Canon was content to peer over his sister's shoulder or laugh at Rider's antics.

A successful day was claimed as we had actually touched the sea and arrived home with no sunburns!

Beautiful day for everyone.